Faroe Islands

Today we left Scotland, airborne, headed to the Faroe Islands. As previously mentioned this is an unexpected bonus due to lack of space on the ferry from mainland Scotland to the Shetlands and a paucity of accommodation on the Shetlands. (We won’t mention that if we had not been being “unplanned”, travel to Shetlands would have been booked months ago!)

So anyway, a happy, unexpected bonus in that we are able to visit somewhere we really wanted to, but thought we wouldn’t achieve this year.

Dropping the car at Edinburgh airport was so easy, we booked the parking where you just dump your car at the terminal, hand in your keys and the car-keys will be back waiting for us in a locker when we land. A bit like valet parking. Boarding was extremely efficient – I’d be disappointed if it wasn’t as there were only about 40 passengers on an A320. Strangely though there has been no passport control in Scotland. So basically the UK has no idea we’ve been present!

We arrived into the Faroe Islands, getting a preview of the next week out the windows. Hills seemed very close to the wings as we approached the runway.

Got through customs quickly, at the gate, where disappointingly, they didn’t stamp our passports and 15mins later we’re in our car for the week.
The new challenge this week, back to the other side of the road and a new car, one that ḥas fancy sat nav and all sorts of screens, beeping and unknown alarms. Won’t be long till we’re back in our trusty analog van.

The weather in our 40min trip from the airport to the capital Tórshavn must have changed at least 10 times. Rain, drizzle, mist, rainbows and sunshine all took their turn. The scenery reminds us so much of Iceland, we’re going to love it here.

The drivers however, reminded us of Italy. We may hate that!
After checking in we strolled around the Tórsvhan, specifically the older area that took us through the parliamentary buildings, including where the PM lives.

The area is called Tinganes which means “The Thing”. interesting. The Faroe Islands have had a form of parliament since the days of the Vikings.

We wandered between traditional houses that are still lived in, painted black or red usually, with grass roofs for insulation!

We stopped at a bar for a beer.

It may be a good time to go dry as two beers cost us $40!!! It’s going to be an expensive week!

Lucky it came in a cute glass (not included)

We headed back to our hotel for dinner, then sat in the lounge for a bit-they have baskets of wool and knitting needles as knitting when sitting down, even in meetings and conferences, is a tradition her, they invite you to try!

Our first full day in the Faroe Islands today.

This morning we did separate activities, I went to a locals house Kvívík for a 3hr knitting circle, learning a bit about Faroese life, knitting and starting work on a hat using a traditional pattern.

This pattern is called Stýrimannsmynstrið

I’ll keep working on it. Knitting is a huge part of life here – our hotel even provides a basket of wool and needles for people to use to relax in the evening.

Whilst I was knitting, Kevin went to Vestmanna to visit the Saga Museum,

St.Brandon (7th century) who is believed to have lived here.

wandered up some hills and took in the view overlooking the beach at Leynar.

When back together we had a hotdog for lunch and then visited the remains of an old viking house and barn.

Nearby was a memorial for the 25 crew of Stella Argus, a herring boat that disappeared in 1957, with no trace of boat or crew ever found. 8 of the missing were from Kvívík.

From there we just meandered our way back to Tórshavn via a number of small villages and farming communities.

We stopped frequently to see a new stunning view.

As we drove, there were times when the cloud passed over us and we suddenly had very low visibilty.

And the entire way, lots of sheep alongside the road. They’re amazing colours and have a long stringy wool coat.

This evening we had booked dinner at ROKS, a fancy restaurant in Tórshavn. Oh my, what a delicious meal.

It was all seafood, but so delicious.

As the terrible influencahs that we are, we forgot to take a photo of many of the dishes until it was either half eaten or completely finished, but here’s what we have:

Accompanied by conversation with a lovely couple from Norway, a couple from USA and the family who also did the knitting class with Sarah this morning, it was a lovely evening.

Today we left Tórshvan for Gjógv, so named for the gorge where the town is located. Gjógv is Faroese for gorge.
Google maps says we are 48km from Tórshavn, it took us 7.5 hours, nothing at all to do with bad roads.
The scenery today has been spectacular, even looking at it through the mist that shrouded much in the morning.

There is an island in the background there, not visible due to low cloud.

We started heading south and went through the Sandoyartunnilin, one of Faroe Islands’ incredible tunnels that is almost 11km long and 155m below sea level, to Sandoy Island. The tunnels have special lighting and art in them (to make them interesting we guess) -there’s one we’re particularly looking forward to seeing in a few days. This tunnel had lighted historical scenes.

Not great photos from a moving car, but you get the idea.

After stopping in Sandur:

we returned to Streymoy and headed to Kirkjubøer to visit a 15th century Cathedral ruin

and houses from the same time that are still lived in.

The ruins of a church near the Cathedral ruins.

We then headed north visiting a historic farm at Saksun.

The farm buildings with grass roofs. Lots of houses still have these.

View from above the farm, looking down a waterfall.

On the way to our next stop we checked out Fossa. Faroe Islands’ highest waterfall at 140m.

We then went to Tjørnuvík Beach to view sea stacks known as the Giant and the Witch and took a walk on the black sand beach. The road into this town is so narrow that it operates on lights that only change to allow the opposite direction traffic every 5 minutes!

How about now? (Have a better photo on my camera, but can’t be fussed importing it yet.)

And then we drove to Eiði which has been settled since 920 AD before heading to Gjójv our accommodation for the next two nights, via a road that is closed 6 months of the year.

Between Eiði and Gjójv we saw what we believe is some of THE BEST scenery we have every seen. We’re convinced the photos do not do it justice.

And finally we arrived in Gjójv.

Day three of Our Faroe Islands road trip was spent mainly on Eysturoy Island. We traced the edges of the island, stopping in a range of villages to see the local sights and admire the scenery.

Towns and villages here tend to have a board with a map and numbered highlights so it’s easy to find what’s important at each.

Among the things we saw were:
In Funningur, a really cool monument to Grimur Kamban, considered to be the first man to set foot on the Faroe Islands. The scale of man and boat and mountains is accurate, and unusual in a public sculpture!

In Eludivik, a merman statue- Marmennilin. Mermen are considered to tease fishermen at sea and be responsible for things like snagged lines and poor catches.

In Oyndarfjørður we saw houses from the 1500s and a board describing the demise of a man named Magnus Heinason who, in the 1500s, was executed for some crimes he was cleared of two days later!! A bit late for exoneration!

In Fuglafjørður there was a range of public sculptures on the waterfront.

We drove around three of the four peninsulas on this island, number four will be visited tomorrow.

We stopped for a couple of walks, to admire the scenery and engage sheep in conversation.

Returning to Gjógv, Kevin walked up a big hill, I waited for him reading my book in the sun. (There was a little bit for a few minutes).

Then we walked a different promontory together before heading back to the hotel.

The distance between hotels today was 45km. This distance took us 7hrs! Our first point of interest was at Nes, a town on the southern tip of the island of Eysturoy. Here we visited an English Fortress from WW2. There is still a gun in situ, and was used to defend the entrance of Skálafirth. (Did you know that the UK technically occupied the Faroe Islands during WW2?)

We again noted monuments to lost seamen in various places today. This one is of a woman and her son looking out to sea waiting for the boat to return. They really do some meaningful and considered street art here.

They also do this.

Then it was shopping for wool time at Navia Yarn. So many options, but thankfully I knew exactly what I wanted so was in and out within 70minutes. I may have done some additional browsing, spending far too long and far too much in the store. However I can now finish my hat, knit another one and have wool to start a vest. Keeping my brain busy, but thank goodness I don’t have grandkids to knit for yet or I’d be in trouble – some patterns were SO cute. (Anyone want a puffin jumper?)
We then meandered the roads and tunnels of Borðoy and Viðoy islands.

One tunnel under the water had a very cool lighting at the point where we were 155m under the ocean floor apparently.

We saw one herd of highland coos and just amazing view after amazing views. In one fjord the water was as calm as ocean water can be and gave us an amazing reflection.

From another we could see the tips of two other islands.

From one of those islands we walked past an uninhabited village to a crevasse in the rock where people used to collect eggs.

The weather has again been kind, even though we’ve seen only a tiny bit of blue sky and had a little rain the sun is almost out and we’re currently having a beer opposite the local brewery. Their pub was out of action today so we’re at the cafe next door that sells beer from the brewery.
Another fabulous day on these islands.

We were up earlyish this morning and on the road soon after 8. Our first stop was the town of Kunoy on the Island of Kunoy. To get here we had to drive through a two-way, one lane, unlit tunnel. Slightly scary, but thankfully we didn’t pass any vehicles.

At Kunoy we checked the board and noted the highlights, one of which was a walk to a plantation that the town is proud of.

So we walked up the hill a bit, chatted with some sheep, walked in the plantation – accessed by a bridge that looked like the troll from Billy Goats Gruff lived under it.

We then continued down the hill, back into town with a quick stop at the original school and mill.

It was then back in the car and through the tunnel. This time we pulled over and switched off to confirm that yes, it is pitch black under a mountain in a tunnel with no lights.

From here we drove to Tórshavn via the Eysturoyartunnilin, the one under the sea with a roundabout in it! We did a couple of laps of the roundabout and then one more to find our correct exit!

Back in Tórshavn we went in search of a specific glassmaker, no luck, she’s out of the country and her workshop is closed. Not meant to be.

We then headed to the last couple of towns on the main island that we hadn’t visited yet.

We also stopped at a beach for a walk and even saw some blue sky!!

There were a couple of sheep enjoying a drink of salt water

and I collected a rainbow of colours in sea glass, sea pottery and shells.

“Sea glass” is a perfect example of an effective PR campaign to improve the image of ocean litter.

We then drove to our hotel for the night, aviation geek’s paradise, it’s right next to the airport.

Oh, and last night I finished my Faroese beanie.

After a relaxing evening we got up this morning as we’re 25 minutes early for our 930am boat trip to see puffins.
Unfortunately the boat trip was at 9am.
The company kindly swapped us to the 11am trip.
So we killed some time and were back at the marina (again) with plenty of time to spare.
Out on the boat we passed salmon farms; it’s a HUGE industry here.